{"id":46,"date":"2011-11-05T14:57:48","date_gmt":"2011-11-05T19:57:48","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/?p=46"},"modified":"2011-11-06T13:31:25","modified_gmt":"2011-11-06T19:31:25","slug":"nikon-coolpix-3100-near-infrared-hack","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/2011\/11\/05\/nikon-coolpix-3100-near-infrared-hack\/","title":{"rendered":"Nikon Coolpix 3100 Near Infrared Hack"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>While this\u00a0post is not\u00a0in-theme with the stated goals of the blog, I wanted to save my notes\u00a0somewhere as well as make a URL to show-off for my friends. On the other hand, I&#8217;m opimistic my experiment will enable some &#8220;eco-minded research&#8221;, so perhaps there&#8217;s still a loose tether linking this\u00a0back to the GIS community..<\/p>\n<p>Basically, I hacked my old, 3 megapixel Nikon Coolpix 3100 today so that I could take NIR (near infrared) pictures. The following images serve as a storyboard for the process.<\/p>\n<p>0:\u00a0 The <strong>tools and materials<\/strong> involved include (clockwise from bottom-left)<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt; small round-nose pliers (my wife uses these for beading)<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt; small phillips head screwdiver<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt; butt-end of unprocessed camera film<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt; small curve-nosed pliers<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt;\u00a0scissors<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt; electrical tape<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt; the Nikon Coolpix 3100 (the pic is post-hack)<br \/>\n&#8212;-&gt; one depleted roll of hockey tape*<\/p>\n<p>* The expired roll of hockey tape became the &#8220;housing&#8221;\u00a0for a\u00a0DIY\u00a0visible bands filter, which you see fitted to the\u00a0front of the camera.\u00a0By some amazing coincidence the cardboard tubing holding the tape fit\u00a0the camera perfectly.\u00a0The &#8220;donut hole&#8221; was just the right diameter\u00a0to cling to the face of the camera; plus, it was just deep-enough to stay clear of the lens when in use.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-47\" title=\"Tools and Materials (end game)\" src=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/0_the_toolz-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/0_the_toolz-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/0_the_toolz-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/0_the_toolz.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>1:\u00a0 <strong>Looking at the guts<\/strong> &#8211;I had to pull 22 screws to reach the NIR filter and CCD mount. At this point, I was relatively convinced the sucker was dead meat. The IR filter was just a piece of pinky-nail-sized-glass clinging to a rubber footing. I was able to gently tease the filter from the footing using my index finger.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Caveat: If you try a similar project, I recommend going to the trouble to illustrate or take notes documenting the locations of screws as you remove them. While my camera still worked without any screws being\u00a0replaced (<em>no kidding<\/em>), once I was finished experimenting, I wasn&#8217;t able to replace 7 of 22 screws into the camera assembly. There wasn&#8217;t a functional consequence in my case, but I hate knowing that I didn&#8217;t get it 100% back together.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/1_busted_guts.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-48\" title=\"The Nikon Coolpix 3100, Gutted.\" src=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/1_busted_guts-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/1_busted_guts-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/1_busted_guts-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/1_busted_guts.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>2: After\u00a0removing\u00a0the NIR filter, I snapped the camera back together (using ZERO of the 22 screws, expecting to crack it open again shortly)\u00a0and was fully amazed when it powered-on following surgery. Next, I fired-up\u00a0a burner on the stove and\u00a0photographed the hot burner across from its cool neighbor. At this point, <strong>without the NIR filter the rear-burner\u00a0coils appear bright-pink<\/strong>, which I expected, but\u00a0the\u00a0distinction between the active burner and the inactive burner was not as pronounced as I hoped. So I decided to incorporate another trick\u00a0revealed by my research..\u00a0<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Note: The coils were <em>not<\/em> visibly red; that is, I could not distinguish the hot burner from the cool burner by sight alone at the time of the exposure.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/2_pre_vis_filter.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-49\" title=\"Before Adding a DIY Visible Light Filter\" src=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/2_pre_vis_filter-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/2_pre_vis_filter-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/2_pre_vis_filter-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/2_pre_vis_filter.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>3: One of the related articles I researched provided the idea of making <strong>a DIY Visible Bands Filter<\/strong> out of a slice of unprocessed camera film. So I tried it. I found a nearly-depleted roll of hockey tape to serve as the filter housing. Then I &#8220;sharpied&#8221;\u00a0the insides of the tape&#8217;s cardboard tubing and used elecrical tape to attach a choice cut of unprocessed camera film. As you can see, the end result fit the camera very nicely &#8212;I can&#8217;t exaggerate how perfectly the depleted roll of hockey tape fit the camera exterior. Would it work?\u00a0<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Regarding the cut of film, you <em>don&#8217;t<\/em> want to use the see-through, sepia-toned portion with off-color images, as those are processed negative frames. Instead, you want\u00a0the black, unprocessed portion. I found a good piece\u00a0 with plenty of slack at the butt-end of some old negatives.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/3_vis_filter_added.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-50\" title=\"Adding a Homemade Visible Light Filter\" src=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/3_vis_filter_added-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"300\" height=\"225\" srcset=\"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/3_vis_filter_added-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/3_vis_filter_added-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/3_vis_filter_added.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>4: With my visible bands filter attached and\u00a0an enthused state-of-being, I returned to the stove for another experiment. Once again I fired up the rear burner, waited for it to radiate a reasonable amount of heat, then took another pic. As you can see, the hot burner is about the only thing visible in the photo.<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>Our stove is white, so clearly my visible bands filter leaks some light into the exposure. However, note\u00a0how dark\/black the forward burner is. Once again, there was no difference between these burners at the time of exposure (at least, as a human can see). This was the sort of result I was hoping to get.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/4_glowing_burner1.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" class=\"aligncenter size-medium wp-image-52\" title=\"After the Visible Light Filter\" src=\"http:\/\/cartometric.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/4_glowing_burner1-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"225\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/4_glowing_burner1-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/4_glowing_burner1-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2011\/11\/4_glowing_burner1.jpg 1536w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 225px) 100vw, 225px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Blurry Images<\/strong>: In my Nikon Coolpix 3100, it seems the stock NIR Filter pulls double-duty, behaving not only as a spectral sieve, but also providing some optical focus. <a href=\"http:\/\/www.abe.msstate.edu\/~jwooten\/camera\/lense.html\" target=\"_blank\">James Wooten&#8217;s blog post\u00a0<\/a>provides some insight into this issue noting\u00a0that without\u00a0the NIR Filter\/Glass..<\/p>\n<blockquote><p>..the camera will be \u201cnear-sighted\u201d without it. I used a optical glass that has about 85% transmission in the IR and visible range. It helps if you have a friend that cuts glass for a living.<\/p><\/blockquote>\n<p>\u00a0I happen to have a specific goal in mind for my NIR camera, so I&#8217;m not immediately concerned about this shortcoming; however, if I want to take photos with a reasonable amount of visual acuity, I&#8217;ll have to resolve this issue at some point. When and if I get around to that, I&#8217;ll return to this post and update my notes.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Related Pages<\/strong>: Each of the following sites povided some form of inspiration or insight, so\u00a0I wanted to log them along with the article&#8211;<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/4photos.de\/camera-diy\/index-en.html\">http:\/\/4photos.de\/camera-diy\/index-en.html<\/a>: Many, many links devoted to camera repair, modification, and hackery..<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.lifepixel.com\/tutorials\/infrared-diy-tutorials\/nikon-coolpix-5400\">http:\/\/www.lifepixel.com\/tutorials\/infrared-diy-tutorials\/nikon-coolpix-5400<\/a>: These people will do the camera hack for you if you&#8217;re willing to part with\u00a0some money\u00a0(my Nikon would&#8217;ve cost about $200). However, I&#8217;m wondering if LifePixel\u00a0may sell the clear optical lens I need to fix the blurred images problem?\u00a0Theirs is\u00a0the first site I&#8217;ll check when I decide to cross that bridge. This URL goes to\u00a0their tutorial for hacking a similar Coolpix model, but they had several such tutorials, so if you&#8217;re considering your own project, I recommend perusing their site for a tut describing the hack\u00a0on a camera model near to the one in your crosshairs.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.geektechnique.org\/projectlab\/254\/how-to-turn-a-digital-camera-into-an-ir-camera.html\">http:\/\/www.geektechnique.org\/projectlab\/254\/how-to-turn-a-digital-camera-into-an-ir-camera.html<\/a>: Mark Hoekstra does a nice job of presenting his camera hack using several step-by-step images. Read his site in full before you jump head-first into your own\u00a0poject. In the end, I felt my project required going to a similar &#8220;component depth&#8221;.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.abe.msstate.edu\/~jwooten\/camera\/lense.html\">http:\/\/www.abe.msstate.edu\/~jwooten\/camera\/lense.html<\/a>: The original James Wooten post, cited in the body of my article.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/faq\/\">http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/faq\/<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/wooten\/\">http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/wooten\/<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/hot_mirror_replacement.gif\">http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/hot_mirror_replacement.gif<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/wooten\/IR_Block.GIF\">http:\/\/www.echeng.com\/photo\/infrared\/wooten\/IR_Block.GIF<\/a>: Eric Cheng maintains an interesting site; it was actually through his page that I ran across the Wooten article. Eric did the research and posted some details related to the much-needed\u00a0replacement lens, which I appreciated.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.diyphotography.net\/take_infrared_pictures_with_digital_camera_ir_filter\">http:\/\/www.diyphotography.net\/take_infrared_pictures_with_digital_camera_ir_filter<\/a>: This post inspired my implementation of the DIY visible bands filter. They do a swell job of documenting the materials and steps\u00a0involved in making the filter\u00a0(this is if you don&#8217;t happen to have a used roll of hockey tape langushing\u00a0somewhere\u00a0in your gear bag).<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.jollinger.com\/photo\/articles\/cheap_ir.html\">http:\/\/www.jollinger.com\/photo\/articles\/cheap_ir.html<\/a>: One of the first posts I ran across; however, James&#8217; camera was quite different from mine, so most of the post wasn&#8217;t applicable. But, it was open in my tabs when I embarked on this venture, so I&#8217;ll cite it anyway.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Home Energy Audit<\/strong>: So, why would I make an NIR camera if my chief interest isn&#8217;t taking unique and stunning photographs? Well I\u00a0hope\u00a0can\u00a0photograph my house from all sides to learn where the structure leaks the most heat. On the other hand, NIR isn&#8217;t exactly heat, so this may not correlate in practice, but it&#8217;s worth a shot if only for the fun of trying. My wife and I have been thinking about replacing some of our windows, so if we can&#8217;t afford to replace all our windows, I thought perhaps we could zero-in on those windows that are costing us the most money. I don&#8217;t know if this will work but, once I think it&#8217;s cold-enough to try it, I&#8217;ll\u00a0take some pics of\u00a0the house in all its raging\u00a0un-eco glory and post them here in the article.<\/p>\n<p>\ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p>\/Elijah<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>While this\u00a0post is not\u00a0in-theme with the stated goals of the blog, I wanted to save my notes\u00a0somewhere as well as make a URL to show-off for my friends. On the other hand, I&#8217;m opimistic my experiment will enable some &#8220;eco-minded research&#8221;, so perhaps there&#8217;s still a loose tether linking this\u00a0back to the GIS community.. Basically, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[1],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/46"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=46"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/46\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":57,"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/46\/revisions\/57"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=46"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=46"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/elrobis.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=46"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}